Locomotoring

Spending our time untethering the mind, getting the fidgets out, exploring the in-between ideas, and learning kintsugi.

Posts Tagged ‘cairngorms

An ancient forest in Cairngorms National Park

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The Romans called Scotland ‘Caledonia’ and Caledonian pine trees are the name for the native Scottish pine. Incidentally, I had first come across the word Caledonia in the Astrix and Obelix comic series. Caledonian pines do not look like Douglas firs. To experience the ancient Caledonian forests today, one has to visit the Cairngorms National Park. Here in Cairngorms, the forest is dominated by regenerated Scottish pine with a native understory of wild berries, juniper, heather and rowan.

The morning after the grand multi-course dinner at the Old Manse of Blair (link), we headed up to Inverness along route A9. Our starting point near Blair Atoll starts to skirt Cairngorms. Aviemore, the heart of Cairngorms, nearly halfway to Inverness, is where we would stop to explore the Cairngorms. The “Big Tree” country Hermitage woods hike (link) with its American Douglas firs and Japanese larches is a beautiful forest but isn’t a native Scottish forest.

Before Aviemore, we stopped at a small town called Kingussie for lunch and to explore the Ruthven Barrack ruins, an important historical site in Jacobite uprising (link). Kingussie itself is not forested. From the on top of the hill where the barrack is situated, one can see the forests. At the top of hill, it was also 80F in shade.

A coronation chicken toastie for lunch at Kingussie, it was a perfect toastie. I had known about coronation chicken. One of Ottolenghi’s recipes riffs on the coronation chicken to make a coronation cauliflower, a dish that I make often.

By the time we had reached Aviemore, we had decided to walk a short trail called “An Lochan Uaine (pronounced oo-an-yi, The Green Loch) circular”. The trailhead is at the Glenmore Visitor Center. I was dreading a traffic grid lock but that wasn’t the case. The crowd was reasonable given that the visitor center is right by the popular Reindeer Center. The hiking path essentially takes one to the loch and then loops back. Aside from a short stretch that needed scrambling up a steep hill, the path was accessible all the way. Views included rows upon rows of Caledonian pines, a tranquil meadow, the “mystical” green lake, views of Loch Morlich and at least one gnarly old tree. Here in the forest of Cairngorms, it was remarkably cool. By the time we would get to Inverness, we would also be greeted by thunder and rain.

A dog playing at the Lochan Uaine. Tales have it that it is the loch where fairies wash their clothes at night. I may think that the green is from algae but I also love fairy tales. The olden Celtic stories reflect the ethos of the beautiful landscape that is often shrouded in rain, and fog and pathos of everyday life that used to be punctuated by abrupt transitions from safety to danger.

Written by locomotoring

July 20, 2026 at 7:27 pm

Sticky toffee pudding in Blair Atholl

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I had to try the sticky toffee pudding at The Old Manse of Blair (link) restaurant, a Michelin restaurant in Blair Atholl in Pitlochry. The restaurant sources their ingredients within a 30 mile radius. I haven’t had a sticky toffee pudding before so I can’t compare. I can only say that this was an excellent cake. The interior was moist, the sweet and salty toffee sauce had a delicate burnt caramel flavor. The chef has replaced the more traditional dates in the pudding recipe with parsnips, the later being local to the highlands. If the service staff hadn’t mentioned the parsnips, I might have been left wondering about the woody nutmeg flavor.

Sticky toffee pudding at the Old Manse of Blair.
Apparently the building was the Highland Railway Company’s HQ in 1800s and was in state of disrepair. It has only been recently renovated into a guesthouse and restaurant. The purple fireweed is a common adornment to Scottish landscape. They also have couple of highland cows on premise that the guesthouse residents get to feed.
Don’t let the sunlight fool you. This was closer to 7:30 pm. The active rail line is to the left of the photo and no more than a 100 ft away from the dining room. We heard the train rumble by several times during the course of our meal.
Although the sticky toffee pudding is what I want to remember this Michelin restaurant for, their scallop starter stole my heart. It came with a rich scallop roe and pickled radishes and samphire. Samphire too was also my first taste although I have known about them from Ottolenghi cookbooks. The scallop roe was also the first. They are umami and oh so melt in your mouth texture. Apparently the roe is highly perishable and doesn’t make it to the plate in US. In Blair Atholl, at the edge of Perthshire and Cairngorms, perhaps perishability isn’t a problem.

Theirs was a prix fixe menu. It had been a while since we had done a multi-course meal. I find the act of sitting for two hours physically taxing. I had requested the service staff that I be allowed to get up and walk about their premises – so I could be more ready for the pudding. They were amused and suggested that we walk as long as we liked. And we did, we were gone for a good thirty minutes. The servers later told us that they were starting to worry if we had skedaddled without paying!

Written by locomotoring

July 20, 2026 at 7:49 am