Locomotoring

Snow capped mountains, lakes, waterfalls and rivers mark this land and volcanic eruptions have shaped these markers. What now exists is a mixture of what came naturally, and how the settlers shaped the land. Large agricultural fields stand where Tulelake once did – the 1906 Klamath Basin Project drained much of the lake to create farms and cattle grazing lands. What is left of Tulelake now is struggling to become a wildlife refuge. In drought years like 2021, Tulelake becomes a giant mud puddle, leaving the current stewards of the lake, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, scrambling to fight botulism (link). Alturas town, the far east side of Modoc land prides itself as a land where cattle is raised.

Where the forest prevails, I imagine that it looks much the same as what it did a thousand years ago. In the spring, the snow capped mountains are visible in the distance, the blue sky is full of white fluffy clouds, the streams and creeks criss-cross the land, small and large lakes and swamps offer view of nesting birds, the fresh green leaves of trees are interspersed by black volcanic rocks. On a trail, the sound of a waterfall or river is never too far. The light on the forest floor looks green due to all the new leaves in the understory of tall pines.

Before the state sponsored genocide began here in California, there were an estimated 500 Modocs roaming this land. We roamed the South Warner Wilderness area for half a day without spotting a single soul.

I have been thinking of acquiring a molcajete for a while now. If I could make my own, I would have picked up a stone or two from the Lava Beds National Monument. Situated next to Tulelake, it presents a unique and mysterious set of geological features. It was also the site of Modoc war where a small higgledy-piggledy band of Modoc warriors put up an year long fight with US army. Podcaster Josh from the Wild West Extravaganza has a three part series, that is fascinating to listen to. Apparently, it is the only war between first people and the settlers, that resulted in two unique deaths – death of a US General, General Canby in hands of Modoc warrior, Captain Jack. And, Captain Jack remains the only first people’s Captain to be charged with war crimes. Josh’s narration seems to suggest that Captain Jack was a reluctant warrior – he had made friends with the settlers and General Canby was a gentle General with a builder and administrator mindset. In a world full of weird events, the Modoc war is one.

Here are a few of our photos from the Modoc land …