Locomotoring

Diwali, a festival of lights.

This year’s Diwali ended up being a festival of star lights at Death Valley National Park, the darkest sky that can be, amidst a federal government shutdown.

We had made a call earlier in the summer to sign up for a star gazing event organized by Eastern Sierra Observatory, in Panamint Valley. The site was by the side of a county maintained dirt road, Indian Ranch road. The organizers are astrophotographers themselves. They were quiet until a few days before the event. An earlier flash flooding in August had resulted in closure of several roads in Death Valley. Three weeks ago, the federal government had shut down resulting in the shutdown of National Park Services. It had rained recently and as a result, the county road was badly rutted in places. The organizers had crafted a detailed and helpful email on road access – “Take Hwy 58 from Bakersfield and not the twisty Hwy 178”, “Whatever you do — first navigate to Ballarat first”, “Do not approach the county road from north”, “The road is bumpy here and there, so drive slowly”, …

I wasn’t sure what to expect. This was our first communal star gazing event. On one hand was the government shutdown and poor road conditions. On other hand, the 2025 Dark Sky Festival in Death Valley National Park, held in Feb, had reported over 6,800 attendees. Our camping experience hasn’t yet prepared us to deal with a primitive campground. The site was going to have porta potties, but not water. Instead, they were going to bring large telescopes to look at planets in our solar system and star clusters that are million light years away. I couldn’t stand the idea of star gazing while being unbathed for 3 days in a hot valley. So, we had also checked into the Panamint Springs Resort. The rutted county road meant we were going to be driving an hour each way from Panamint Springs Resort (daytime) to the campsite (nighttime) and back, but it also meant that we were going to be fed, washed and rested. Even then, I was a little apprehensive. I needn’t have been.

In the end, 150-180 vehicles had congregated at the event, not thousands. They were respectful of the dark sky. Everyone used red lights when they needed to use a light. There was no music playing. While the historic temperature averages predicted 60-90F, we ended up with 50-85F. As far as Death Valley goes, it was positively balmy weather. They had suggested bringing 12 inch stakes and we were glad to have followed the suggestion. We experienced gusts of wind throughout our stay. It was particularly windy when we were setting camp. I remember feeling a brief moment of panic when we weren’t sure if we would be able to put up the tent. But we did and the tent stayed put. There were a couple of welcome surprises – a starlink WiFi access and a food truck.

It couldn’t have been better star gazing experience. We have been going to Pinnacles National Park (Bortle 3), but Death Valley sky is darker still (Bortle 1). We would get to the campsite by 4 or 5 pm, and set up photography gear. During earlier part of the evening, there were organized events. One evening we listened to a panel of astrophysicists from Caltech. We looked through giant telescopes and saw globular cluster and rings of saturn. We ate simply. We would select the star cluster and set up the photoshoot program and catch a snooze before moving on to the next star cluster. Each night we ran two programs. We managed to shoot several hours of Andromeda galaxy, Pleiades cluster, North America nebula and the Orion nebula. These are relatively large objects in the sky – easier for beginner gear and skill set. The location of the site caused a dome like effect, the night sky was surrounded by mountains on the horizon. The desert landscape meant no tall trees to interrupt the view. It was stars as far as eyes could see. And more with binoculars. And more still with camera. Along the milky way, nearly every pixel was occupied by a star. We saw meteors. We saw satellites.

It was not an unpleasant experience sleeping (somewhat fitfully) while listening to the periodic shutter of our DSLR. I woke up with a start once because a donkey was braying. The occasional gust made the tent cover flap and added to the fitfulness of the sleep. We would wake up early, wrap up the gear and drive back to the Panamint Spring Resort. There we would grab breakfast, enjoy a hot shower, catch naps, inspect the photography artifacts from night before and plan the upcoming night’s shooting. On the very last night of our stay, we decided to skip the campsite and shoot from the resort’s well maintained campground. Our neighbor was a loud group that kept the fire going until well past midnight. The sky was so dark that it didn’t stop us from being able to see the stars, infinite of them. For the first time, I could actually see a nebula, the Orion nebula, through binoculars.

Stars make me happy and sad at the same time. More than anything, they make me want to live my life at its fullest. I truly believe that there are millions of intelligent species elsewhere in the universe and we are not unique. Heck, our planet has thousands of intelligent species! I want desperately for SETI to succeed. But I have finally come to grapple with the fact that there is simply no way for us to hear observable noises from another planet for a long time. That long time is perhaps a million years. Andromeda, the nearest large galaxy, which likely hosts a human like intelligent lifeform or two, is over 2.5 million light years away. Humanity has been making observable noise only the last two hundred years. Even as I write it, I want to hold on to a little iota of hope.